Rangoon, now Yangon: A city so nice they named it twice. But from now on, you may only know it as the place where Sophie Aung’s cooking is from.

Sophie’s origin story is perfect: At some point, enough people eating Sophie’s home cooking said the five words that have launched countless great food operations:

“You should sell this.”

So she packed up her world and brought it to the one American place chaotic, crowded, and delicious enough to make sense: Queens.

This month, we are heading out to Sophie’s Rangoon Kitchen — one of Elmhurst’s hottest new spots, recently named by Eater as one of Queens’ best new restaurants — for a feast of Burmese comfort food and glorious offal. It’s a fraction of the distance to Myamar, and we are saving you the jet lag.

Yangon street food is bold, funky, herbal, crunchy, sour, rich, and designed for long nights and cold beer. The kind of food eaten under fluorescent lights while scooters roar past and somebody nearby argues loudly about politics.

This month’s menu reads like exactly the sort of thing that causes us Gastronauts group texts to spiral immediately into all caps:

PORK INTESTINES!!! And tea leaf salad. Pork ear salad. Shrimp fritters. Deeply restorative bowls of Kyay Oh soup loaded with vermicelli, pork broth, greens, and egg. And a dessert-drink hybrid involving pandan jelly, coconut, ice cream.
In other words: perfect Gastronauts material.

So Gastronauts! See you there. This is a tiny place, but bring your friends—they can always sit on your lap or on a scooter outside.